How to Grow Watermelons in Wyoming
Growing watermelons in Wyoming can be a challenge due to the state’s cooler climate and short growing season, but with the right approach, it’s possible to harvest sweet, juicy melons. Watermelons require warmth, sunshine, and good soil conditions to thrive. Here’s a step-by-step guide to growing watermelons in Wyoming.
1. Understanding Wyoming’s Climate for Watermelons
Wyoming’s semi-arid climate and high altitude mean cooler nights and shorter summers. Watermelons need warm days and nights to ripen properly, so selecting the right varieties and using techniques to maximize heat is essential.
2. Best Watermelon Varieties for Wyoming
Choose varieties that mature quickly and can handle cooler temperatures:
- Sugar Baby: A small, early-maturing variety that produces 6-10 pound melons in about 75-80 days, perfect for short growing seasons.
- Blacktail Mountain: Bred specifically for cool climates, this watermelon matures in 70-75 days and produces small, sweet fruits.
- Crimson Sweet: Known for its high sugar content, Crimson Sweet matures in about 85 days, making it suitable for warmer parts of Wyoming with longer summers.
3. Starting Seeds Indoors
Due to Wyoming’s shorter growing season, it’s important to start watermelon seeds indoors:
- When to Start: Start seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last frost date, typically in mid-April.
- Planting Seeds: Use peat pots or biodegradable containers filled with a light potting mix. Plant seeds about 1 inch deep and keep them warm (70-85°F) until they germinate.
- Transplanting: Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for a week before transplanting into the garden after the last frost, usually in late May or early June.
4. Soil Preparation
Watermelons thrive in well-drained, sandy loam soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8:
- Amend the Soil: Add compost or aged manure to improve soil fertility and drainage. Watermelons need nutrient-rich soil to support their vigorous growth.
- Mound Planting: Plant watermelons on raised mounds to promote good drainage and to help the soil warm up faster. Space mounds 4-6 feet apart to give the sprawling vines plenty of room to grow.
5. Planting Watermelons Outdoors
Once the soil temperature reaches 70°F, transplant seedlings into the garden:
- Spacing: Plant seedlings 3 feet apart in rows spaced 6-8 feet apart. If direct seeding, plant seeds 1 inch deep and thin to the strongest plants after they emerge.
- Mulching: Use black plastic mulch to retain heat and moisture and to prevent weeds from competing with your watermelon plants.
6. Watering and Care
- Watering: Water deeply and consistently, especially during flowering and fruit development. Watermelons need about 1-2 inches of water per week. Reduce watering as the fruits ripen to improve their sweetness.
- Fertilizing: Watermelons are heavy feeders, so apply a balanced fertilizer when the plants start vining. Once the melons begin to form, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium to promote fruit development.
- Pollination: Watermelons rely on bees for pollination. Plant flowers nearby to attract pollinators and avoid using pesticides that may harm bees.
7. Pests and Diseases
Common pests and diseases to watch for in Wyoming include:
- Cucumber Beetles: These pests can damage young watermelon plants. Use row covers early in the season and handpick beetles if necessary.
- Anthracnose: A fungal disease that causes leaf spots and fruit rot. Plant disease-resistant varieties and rotate crops to reduce the risk.
- Powdery Mildew: This fungal disease is common in humid conditions. Space plants properly to improve air circulation and water at the base to avoid wetting the leaves.
8. Harvesting Watermelons
Watermelons are typically ready to harvest 75-90 days after planting:
- Signs of Ripeness: The tendril closest to the fruit will turn brown and dry out, and the underside of the melon will turn yellow. The melon should also sound hollow when tapped.
- Harvesting: Use a sharp knife or pruners to cut the watermelon from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached.
